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Uganda, and the East Africa Protectorate, later Kenya Colony, grew up along with the railway almost by accident. Fascinating people like Lord Delamere and Ewart Grogan, along with thousands of other tough settlers, were amongst those who took the chance offered to develop a ‘white man’s country’ in the lush, fertile and, at the time (and refusing to get drawn on current land-ownership disputes), sparsely inhabited central highlands. Nothing is ever that simple of course – I can only recommend that you read one of the many histories of the country to get the full story.

As a generalised statement, Kenyans really are extremely friendly. Yes, some of them are out to rip you off – but ever been to London during the tourist season? There are, like everywhere else, far more decent people than there are bad.

If you are going to come, pack a lot of patience … learn to relax – things will get done eventually (well, at the coast it can take eventually plus five minutes). It’s not London, or New York; nor even Akron, or Colchester. Haraka haraka haina baraka, as they say around here.

There are so many places to write about that it’s difficult to know where to start. Certain places are fixed in my heart for a variety of reasons. Obviously, one has to talk about the wild places at the heart of the country – the places where the hugeness of Africa can make one feel utterly insignificant. Places that I have found almost impossible to photograph, and even more impossible to forget. As I sit here I can, if I close my eyes, still clearly visualize my first view of Lake Turkana (the ‘Jade Sea’) – a sight that took my breath away and eased every bone and joint aching from three hard day’s driving. Get away from the towns, out into the open, and the vastness of the Kenyan sky can smack you stupid.

There are also more specific places: The Naro Moro River Lodge, with its tranquility, huge fireplaces, great food, and not forgetting the views of Mount Kenya; the Delamere Terrace at the Norfolk Hotel (absolutely the place for Saturday morning coffee when in Nairobi, my dear, and 100 years old last Christmas Day); the Jolly Roger in Karen, because my daughter likes to play on the peddle cars and the pirate ship; the Grand Kimwa in Kisumu, because it’s just such a great place; Roasters, on Thika Road – just because. Sometimes I don’t even know what the reason is: what actually is the appeal of the bar of The White Rhino in Nyeri?

Obviously the game parks and reserves are what many people come to Kenya to see. You can visit these on your own if you are feeling adventurous, or you can go with one of the innumerable safari companies. With these you pretty much get what you pay for. There are private game reserves and ranches that offer ‘eco-tours’ for up to US$500 a night; safari companies that offer top-of-the-range, individualised tours, with a personal driver for the long-wheel-based Landrovers and a cook, that will make you feel that you are back in the good old days (mind you, if you can afford these people you are probably used to that feeling); and there are companies with one rickety Nissan mini-bus and a couple of ex-army tents. If you are not traveling with a company that sorts everything out for you (one of the best Nairobi based companies that will cover everything from slobbing out on Indian Ocean beaches, to all the game parks, to climbing Mount Kenya, is called Somak), then you have to exercise caution before committing yourself – check more than one company. One definite word of advice is to ignore all of the men who hang around outside The Stanley hotel, in the middle of Nairobi, clutching grubby leaflets.

A nice little driving circuit I sometimes do at a weekend, which gives a good little introduction to the country, is to leave Nairobi on a Friday afternoon and head north towards Nakuru. Friday night is spent at Lake Elementaita Lodge - a beautiful building converted from an old colonial farmhouse built by Lord Delamere’s brother-in-law – wonderful views, and actually a good place to spend a few days unwinding.

After a morning in the Nakuru National Park (lots of flamingo on the lake if you’re lucky) turn up the hill towards Gilgil at Nakuru (take the road to the left of the Kunste Hotel, which does nice lunches, but is a bit run down). The drive to Nyahururu is beautiful, winding up into the hills – and, if you believe the signs, you cross the equator into the northern hemisphere twice.