Polar Triangle III, Part I

Part I of my adventures.

"Till min Vn
Jag vandar till stranden-satter mig ner
Mot snoskldda toppar et lyster jag ser
Sidenskimmer-som smeket fjallen.
P kvllenshimmeln ser jag ett rdlila band
som bryts mot hstens frger i brand,
Djupnande frger i kvallen.
I det sagolikt vackra-jag ser upp
kommer tanker i stillhetens stund till mig d
Idel fragor - varfr r det just s.
Varfr mste man Skiljas frn en vn?
Frn den vn som fngat ens tanker.
Som skapat en djupare knsla- som som man bundits av.
Mts vi bara pa en anhalt i livet
Har detta mtet en djupare mening?
Varfr mttes just du och Jag?
Vad gjrde cart mte annarlunda?
Var vi rliga mot varandra eller glmde vi pa det kta.
Utan att vga visa det.
Hur knde vi avskedsgonblicket?
Vor den stunden kta i knslan?
Fastn vi intet sa - tror jag det var s.
Om vi ters mts - kommer knslan att varar
lika som vid vrt farvl?
Om det r s - varfr mots vi igen?
Vem styr vra liv? - vi mste ju ter skiljas
Varfr blev det just Du - den vn jag mste skiljas ifrn.
Dikt av Fiskesamen Hjalmer berg frn Bjorkudden vid sjn Langas. "

If you are in Jokkmokk, then you have passed the Arctic Circle which Crosses Highway 97 as well as Highway 45. North of the Arctic Circle one can see the midnight sun during the summer and midday darkness during the winter.

Jokkmokk is a Smi word. Originally, it was the name of a group of The Forest Smi who had their winter settlement near the Talvatis Lake. Jokkmokk means a bend in the stream.

The Smi are a people who live in what is now four countries: Sweden, Norway, Finland and Russia. The area in which the Smi live is what they call Spmi. They have their own flag, national holiday and national song.. There are approximately 20,000 Smi in Sweden. About 750 of them live in the district of Jokkmokk.

The town of Jokkmokk dates from the beginning of the 17th century when King Charles IX of Sweden decided to create churches and marketplaces in the north. His goal was to extend the kingdom to the north, and control the trade in Lapland and in this way impose taxes to help finance his wars. This was the origin of the Jokkmokk market which was held for the first time in 1605. Not until the 1960's these Samis where allowed to live in the center of Jokkmokk. Forty years later they are the biggest exporters of Jokkmokk. Their winter market in February will be 400 years old this year.

In the late 19th century, the population of Jokkmokk consisting mainly of Smi, changed. The arrival of settlers and hydroelectric power builders made Jokkmokk a important factor. The District of Jokkmokk is on the Arctic Circle and is Swedens next largest district in size. The total surface is 19474 km.

In other words, 2/3 the size of the Netherlands, or about ten times larger than Luxembourg.
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When I started writing this article I came out with the even number of 46 pages. Thats half a book so I had to shorten it. How to do this and still be just? I am forced to feed you web pages, of the separate places I visited. There are all kinds of unique sights and things worth doing in the district, and the landscape varies so immensely according to the time of year that you will have to come back!

www.padjelanta.com
www.samelandresor.se
www.thunborgviltaffar.se
www.porjus.se
www.arrenjarka.com
www.jokkmokkstenn.com
www.arctic-color.com
www.ajtte.com
www.fjallmistra.slu.se
www.positionjokkmokk.se
www.fiskegruppen.com
www.theyr.net
www.porjus.se
www.thunborgviltaffar.se

SIGHTSEEING IN JOKKMOKK

No matter if you want to visit the fjlls or the center of Jokkmokk, your first stop must be Ajtte. It is a five minute walk directly from the tourist office. Which should be your second stop after Ajtte, unless you have not had accomidations yet. Begin your tour visiting jtte, Swedish Mountain and Smi Museum. Discover the Smi culture and the mountain area in the beautiful and exciting exhibitions. The museum shop sells handicrafts, books and music. It is appropriate for children and accessible for disabled persons. There is Smi specialties at jtte's own restaurant that one should try, and it is inexpensive. Open year round (closed Saturdays from October-April).

THE OLD PHARMACY

During the summer there is an art and handicraft exhibition and sale. Winter time it is closed unless there is a special occasion. Like the magic carpet ride or the winter market , the next "Vintermarknad" is 2005 2-5 February.

LARS PIRAK

Visit Lars Pirak and enjoy his Smi handicraft. Lars was one of the first to renew traditional Smi handicraft. Wood and antler carvings. Oil paintings and watercolors. Tel. (0046)971-106 32. He does not understand English, and a translater is recommended.

EDVIN NILSSON

Edvin used to be park-keeper in the Sarek National Park. Today he is known as a nature photographer, film-maker and writer. His photographs are on exhibit here and his books, posters and postcards are on sale. Edvin understands English, however a translater is recommended. Tel. (0046)971-557 65. Open in the summertime and other times by arrangement.
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JOKKMOKKS STENCENTER

Shop - Workshop Exhibition

Jokkmokks Stencenter is located in town, on the edge of Talvatis Lake, beside the Homestead Museum and the Alpine Garden. There is a big selection of handicraft, exclusive silver jewelry, decorative items and household items all made of stone from the local area. www.polcirkelsten.com It is open all year round. Tel: (0046)971-122 35

JOKKMOKKS ALPINE GARDEN

This part of jtte was inaugurated June 18th 1995. The garden is situated by the rippling Kvarnbcken stream, a five-minute walk from the museum. This is a perfect place for those who want to learn about the flora of the mountain regions or just take a relaxing stroll through the garden paths. There is a historic research cabin and also an information center where Edvin Nilssons slides are shown. Accessible for disabled persons. Tel. (0046)971-101 00. Open during the summer.

JOKKMOKKS TENN

Handicraft in the Smi tradition, this family enterprise is a spot where if you are interested you will be shown the different stages in manufacturing items in pewter. Workshop and shop. If you can, try to get a tour through their facilities. You will be amazed by the love and dedication invested in their work. Tel. (0046)971-554 20. Homepage: www.jokmokkstenn.com Open year round.
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www.polcirkelsten.com Jokkmokks Stencenter for rocks and minerals with shop, workshop and Mineral exhibition. Just a 5 minutes walk from the tourist office.

Viddernas Hus

Their slogan is "Take care of yourself / You are important/ You are worth the best/ Stillness /Warmth/ Consideration/ is what you get...and the creativity starts pouring out of you which it will then there is plenty of handicraft to learn !!"

Jokkmokk has a lot to offer outside of the center, and to appreciate it you have to prepared to spent time. This is exactly what the lady at the tourist office told me with a sparkle in her eye and continued to mention names that sounded alien to me.

Sarek, Padjelanta, Stora Sjfallet and Muddus belong to the Laponia area, which in December 1996 UNESCO nominated as one of the Earths World Heritage sites. Laponia was chosen as a combined nature and cultural heritage site. Once you go there you will find the landscape is so wonderful so much an example of perfection of this world that it could come out of ones dreams. It is a paradise of wild meats, fish and berries. The center of Jokkmokk is easy to reach on daily busses traveling to the airports of Lule and Gllivare, as well as to the train stations of Murjek, Gllivare and Boden. During the summer the inland train line also operates.

SIGHTSEEING NORTH OF JOKKMOKK

The work of art Uvssat davs the doors to the west Akkats Powerstation on the left to your way to Porjus - was painted by Bengt Lingstrm and Lars Pirak as well as Lars J. Nutti. It is decorated with only Sami symbols. At the right side of the station you will find the Seit. The Seit... animals as well as humans had a double soul according to Sami belief, the Seit was the advisor consulting between the two. Territorial claims have been important in all cultures, and among the Samis a Seit was a protector and advisor for rich hunting and fishing grounds. You will also find the Akks, mostly important to women in the Sami religion. The Akks were Maadteraakha and her three daughters, Sarakha, Oksakha and Joeksakha. Sarakha was worshiped by both males and females alike, since her posistion was of utter importance to both genders. She lived beneath the seat for the fire, protected and guarded the birth of newborns of humans and animals, and the protector of life itself. Other than that you will find Maskulin gods.

Lars Piraks famouse painting Raido Manna Alas is towards the right of the dam. The Goabdes, the dreamdrum, is also displayed. This one cant be burned by the church since it is protected by water and its Seit.

I'll continue with Part II next week!

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